Day 38 & 39 (Varanasi)

By the time we arrived in Varanasi I was shattered from doing nothing but look out the window and sleep all day, and starving having only had a bag of crisps and a few biscuits for lunch. We pulled up to the hotel for the two nights and were pleasantly surprised by it's location, countryside rather than dirty city..a welcome change :)

There was a large garden at the side of the hotel that was a nice place for us all to gather and chat which is something we've been missing out on a bit now that we're in hotels rather than hostels so there isn't really a common area so to speak. We were talking about going to a silk factory on the first evening so that our full day wasn't so full that people were too tired to do things then and end up missing out on something that could have been done the previous evening, But before we could go anywhere food was required. I ordered a cheese omlette (I know..I keep ranting about having eaten too many eggs already, but omlette is different). I was the first order in and then the masses descended with their requests. I figured, omlette, very quick, first order in...no problem. They came out after about 15 minutes with an omlette, but gave it to Ronan who had ordered well after me :( I figured mine would be next...I was wrong. They'd run out of egg after a single omlette and as the chef was the waiter and shopper there was no possibility of getting more eggs til he was done with other orders (but instead of telling me this so I could change my mind they said, just five minutes, every 10 minutes for more than an hour. The omlette eventually arrived when I thought I was going to pass out! I don't think I've ever eaten so fast in my life!

When everyone had had some food to fill the gap before dinner, there was a call for the silk factory. The number of people wanting to go had dropped to 8 so they said they'd take us in one car (we've gotten into the Indian spirit of fitting as many people as possible into a single vehicle – be that car or rickshaw). I was curious to see what was on offer and the only thing I had in mind to buy was enough silk to make a sleeping bag liner, or have one made for me. But, once I got there and saw how they make the fabric and the amount of effort that went into it, I was drawn to buy myself something bigger in the form of a bedcover – a beautiful piece of Indian handicraft that I'll have forever. It's the first proper souvenier of the trip that I've allowed myself to buy..the only thing to date I've been treating myself to is a badge for my rucksack from each country we visit. I got a liner too – they made one up for me and even made a bag to hold it in...I can't wait to have an excuse to sleep in it. It's almost too nice to use, so I'm waiting for a requirement rather than a just because :) I wasn't the only one drawn into buying from the best salesmen in the world...all of us emerged with something!

The main purpose for the stop in Varanasi was for us to see the Ganges. We got up at crazy o'clock (4am) to go on a sunrise boat ride on the river. I watched in horror as people bathed and swam in the river., and did a double take every time I saw someone drink from it. I don't understand how they can drink the water knowing what's gone into it...I appreciate their religion dictates it's a very holy place, but it's filthy and smells so bad! The rain started shortly after we pulled out onto the river and didn't let up, I reckon I was easily the winner of the wet t-shirt competition because I was sat by myself at the front of the boat while everyone else was perched side by side along the length of the craft so had some rain protection on either side. I had contemplated bringing my raincoat but didn't bother with it – doh!

After the boat ride we headed back to the hotel for breakfast and I took a power-nap before heading out on a city tour in a rickshaw with Abby & Ana. We were shown the college and several temples, one of which was called the Monkey Temple – but had no monkeys (phew!). It was interesting to see life in another Indian city and I started to warm to the place slightly. It wasn't as dirty as Agra and we weren't hassled to the same degree, but the poverty was hard to look at. It's part of the trip (take the good with the bad) so I'm dealing with it, but feeling guilty about my charmed life.

In the evening about half the group went back to the Ganges to see the sunset and watch some of the cremation services that were taking place. The idea of going back really didn't appeal to me so I stayed behind to pack and get ready for the drive to Nepal tomorrow...bring it on! As I said, I warmed to India..and maybe the 3 nights we'll be back here after Nepal will entice me to return someday, but for now it's still a no thank you.

For photos from Varanasi click here.